Thursday, 26 May 2022

The Road to the Isles

For more than 30 years a couple of books have sat on my bookshelves, gathering dust. The first, called "Scottish Island Hopping - a Handbook for the Independent Traveller", was published in 1981. It is now hopelessy out of date. The second a battered Penguin copy of Samuel Johnson and James Boswells accounts of their travels entitled "A Journey to the Western Isles and the Journal of a Tour to the Hebrides" published in 1775 and 1786 is of even less practical use as a travel guide, but despite their age and impracticality, both books have inspired a long awaited trip to some of the remoter parts of the Bristish Isles.

Some slightly out of date guide books...

In late 2019 and early 2020 a plan started to take shape to visit the Western Isles, island hopping by car and ferry. I checked routes, ferry timetables and accomodation options and built an itinerary that would take us gradually out to the Outer Hebrides. Its a long way. Stornoway, the main town on Lewis, is further away from our home than Paris!

Then in March 2020 all plans came to a grinding halt as Covid appeared on the scene.

Two years later that itinery has been dusted off and revised. A few more up to date guidebooks have been acquired, some new (or as gifts), some by scouring charity bookshops and I've added to an already healthy collection of detailed Ordnance Survey maps.  

....and more up to date travel and walking guides...



Ferries and accomodation have been rebooked and pre trip preparations are well in hand. In the near future we will be packing rucksacks and bags, stocking up on food and supplies ready for a long trip. Some accomodation is self catering and we might be quite a drive from any shops - so we are going prepared. 

After a drive north to cross the border into Scotland we start our island hopping trip with a short stay on one of the islands in the Firth of Clyde, Bute, before we head to Oban to catch another ferry to Mull. We have quite a bit of time to explore Mull and, hopefully, visit Iona before we return to the mainland and head to our next island, Skye, this time reached by the 'new' bridge built in 1995. Our first brief visit to Skye many, many years ago predated the bridge. From Skye we catch a ferry to North Uist and will explore Berneray, both North and South Uist, Baleshare, Benebecula and Eriskay. All are seperate islands but connected by causeways. After this part of the Outer Hebrides we head further north by yet another ferry to Harris, Lewis and our base, a small island: Great Bernera. 

Our return journey takes us back to Skye (via yet another ferry) before we start a leisurely return journey via the Scottish Highlands, Lowlands and Northern England.

It promises to be another brilliant, memory making adventure. No doubt the weather will be unpredictable and at times the midges will be predictably ferocious. We will go prepared with Avon Skin so Soft and 'Smidge' in an attempt to deter ravenous beasties and clothing suitable for every season. 

I'll be sharing photos and reflections as our journey progresses.





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