Homeward Bound

I had planned a slow journey back home, stopping in the Highlands and Lowlands of Scotland and Northern England starting with a brief return to Skye. 

We arrived at our accomodation, late in the day, but with the sun still shining. Our cabin was in Luib a small village on the shore of Loch Ainort, with views of the Red Cuillins. It was right on the shore of the loch and once we'd unpacked our bags and settled in we sat and just watched the sun sink below the peaks of the Red Cuillins across the loch. 

Sunset over Loch Ainort

When unpacking I realised I'd left all our breakfast cereals at our last place which meant we needed to find somewhere open (and serving breakfast) the next morning before doing anything else!

Broadford was the closest option and fortunately a nice little place called Deli Gasta opened at 9.00 am. We were waiting at the doors when they opened and as it was such a lovely morning ordered a takeaway breakfast - in my case smoked salmon and scrambled egg.

I'd suggested to Mrs B that we might climb something in Skye and identified a possible route up a hill overlooking Portree. I knew that a visit to the Cuillins would be vetoed but assured Mrs B that Ben Tianvaig at 413 meters wouldn't be too demanding. We made our way to the lovely little bay at Camastianavaig in an area of Skye called The Braes. It was very quiet, just a couple of other cars and a couple walking on the rocky shoreline and about half a dozen sheep escaping along the road until a sheepdog appeared to round them up and return them to the field from which they'd just escaped. 

The bay at Camastianavaig

Once we had parked up and put our boots on, we started the climb. The path hugged the cliff edge, initially climbing through bracken before giving way to moorland and rock and heading inland slightly. As we gained height and paused for breath views opened up behind us of the Cuiilins and of some little pinnacles of rock on the cliff edge.

What Ben Tianavaig lacks in altitude it more than makes up for in views. The top is marked by a circular trig point and from here there are 360 degree views. To the south the Cuillins, to the east the isle of Raasay and to the north Portree and Trotterish. 

Views to the north

Ben Tianavaig summit

It was quite breezy so we found a sheltered spot just below the summit and refuelled with handfuls of nuts and raisins to keep us going until we made it to Portree. I'd promised Mrs B tea and cake.

We made a speedy descent and found a cafe we'd visited during our last trip to Skye called Relish that we remembered as being good for food. They were only doing take out because of staff shortages, so we opted for some very generous portions of cake and a takeaway cuppa and sat eating and drinking in the small square at the centre of Portree. After shopping for some food we returned to our cabin to soak up the views. The cloud had come down obscuring the mountain tops but it was dry and there was just enough of a breeze to keep the draded midges at bay. 

Clouds rolling in over the Red Cuillins

Our time on the islands had sadly come to an end and the next morning we packed up once more and I set off to drive towards Kyleakin and then over the Skye bridge back onto mainland Scotland. Our destination for the night was a lodge in Tyndrum, but with no particular need to rush I immediately detoured for a walk around Plockton.

This village always features in guide books and calendars of Scotland as one of the 'picture postcard' places in the Scottish Highlands and it is a very pretty harbour village. We briefly visited a few years ago - on a Saturday - to find the road closed, a street party in full flow, with scottish dancing and plenty of alcohol being consumed. This time, early in the morning in the middle of the week, Plockton was more sedate. A few villagers were around popping to the local stores but it had a sleepy atmosphere a complete contrast to our previous visit. We walked along the main street with views over the water to Dunlarig Castle, got as far as the harbour before returning after a stretch of the legs.

Plockton

By lunchtime we'd reached Fort William. Early morning cloud had broken up meaning it was sunny and ideal weather for a picnic. Mrs B had prepared some rolls before we'd set of so we sat in a little green eating these before walking down the main street in search of tea and cake. A bakery called Rain supplied these - and we sat just outside in Cameron Square until the very same bagpiper who had been giving it full throttle on our drive up reappeared and performed an 'encore'. This drove me from my seat. Its not that I dislike pipe music - but this particular piper seemed to prioritise volume over anything else.

The road out of Fort William follows the shores of Loch Leven until reaching the road junction that takes you through Glencoe. This was the very first place I visited in Scotland and I have vivid memories of climbing the peaks that tower over the glen when younger - including one foolhardy walk up the side of the Clachaig Gully from the door of the Clachaig Inn, all the way to the start/end of the Aonach Eagach Ridge. 

I suggested to Mrs B we do something a little less risky and take a walk around Glencoe Lochan Trail - a very pretty spot just outside Glencoe village. It wasn't a very long walk, but with the sun on the water and a few ducks in the reeds it made for an idyllic few moments.

Views of Glencoe Lochan

By late afternoon we'd arrived in Tyndrum. Dining options are a little limited but by far the best choice for travellers is the Real Food Cafe. This roadside cafe sells first class fish and chips with home made mushy peas to either eat in or take away. Its serves ethically and sustainably sourced food and is a living wage employer. We both had the fish supper and if you pass this way be aware: the portions are generous.

Tyndrum is a stopping point on the West Highland Way, a 96 mile path that runs from just outside Glasgow to Fort William. After the meal I suggested to Mrs B that we walk a little section of it to work off some of the calories we'd just consumed. The route going north climbs very gently out of Tyndrum and skirts the lower slopes of Beinn Odhar. This is a far gentler landscape than further north, with grass and trees and a gentle stream offering visual distraction from the stony track.

A superfluous notice....

West Highland Way views outside Tyndrum

We walked about a mile and a half taking in the views and passing a completely superfluous sign on an old metal gate, before heading back to our accommodation and a comfy bed in a very spacious room.

After a good night's sleep and before our first drive of the day, we had a short walk along the southern section of the West Highland Way - walking about a mile through a community woodland, passing an old lead smelting site, until we reached a little lochan, 'The Lochan of the Lost Sword'. According to legend Robert the Bruce cast his sword into this small lochan after losing a battle. Needless to say this is an unlikely - given metal detectors have found no trace of anything in the loch, but it makes for a good tale.

The Lochan of the Lost Sword

We started to drive south, leaving the Highlands in the rear view mirror. I stopped part way along Loch Lomond at Firkin Point - a picnic area and rest stop on the A82. We walked along the old road that's now a footpath and cycle track, stopping to take a few photos and at one point distracted by a Common Sandpiper that appeared on the path and then flew away before returning.

The Firkin view of Loch Lomond

As we reached the southern end of Loch Lomond we made a planned detour to Helensburgh, a well, to do coastal town on the banks of the Firth of Clyde. Our desination was The Hill House, widely considered to be the domestic masterpiece of architectural design by Charles Rennie Mackintosh.

We were fortunate to see Mackintosh's other great building, the Glasgow School of Art, ten years ago not long before it was devastated by a fire. The Hill House is now in the care of the National Trust for Scotland who have tackled the conservation challenge of preserving an important building in a unique and interesting way.

The Hill House was built between 1902-1904. It was the home of a wealthy publisher, Walter Blackie  who commisioned Charles Rennie Mackintosh to design a new family home. What we see today is a product of Rennie's Mackintosh's architectural style and his wife, Margaret Macdonald's artistic designs for the interior.

The Hill House as it looked in the 1920's

The house was clad in a concrete render. Sadly time has not been kind to the building and damp has penetrated as the concrete render has cracked. The National Trust for Scotland have had to envelope the building in a 'box'. Its an ingenious metal structure with a roof and a mesh on each side to allow air to flow but keep rain out. The aim is to prevent any further deterioration in the building and allow it to dry out whilst a more permanent solution is found.

The Hill House under wraps.

Visitors now get the chance see the interior of the house, but to also walk on external walkways up to and above roof level to get a birds eye view of the building. Inside is a lovely set of rooms with contrasting design. Some are dark with wood panelling, whilst others are light and airy but the whole feels very harmonious. Throughout the familiar motifs of Rennie Mackintosh are visible. 

Inside The Hill House

Outside the walkways take you around the outside of the house and climb to above roof height, giving visitors a chance to see the design of the building from multiple heights and elevations. 

A birds eye view

It was fascinating to be able to see so much of the building and a very enjoyable visit. We grabbed a quick bite from the on site cafe, built within the 'cage', sitting outside on a little terrace. It was a bit breezy and we were the only people brave or foolhardy to eat outdoors, even though the sun was shining.

Our destination for the end of the day was a hotel just outside Lockerbie - chosen for convenience rather anything else. Before driving there I detoured to another National Trust for Scotland site just a short distance from Helensburgh, and pretty much on route; Geilston Garden. These 200 year old gardens are close to the banks of the Clyde between Helensburgh and Dumbarton and whilst they are not spectacular it made for a pleasant diversion. One of the advantages of being National Trust members is reciprocal arrangements give free entry to Scottish National Trust properties - so it had been a cheap day!

Geilston Garden

By late afternoon we had arrived at our hotel on the outskirts of Lockerbie. I wasn't intending to explore any more places that day, but as we turned into the road leading to our hotel a brown sign caught my eye: 'Ukrainian POW Chapel'. This intrigued me - so once we'd checked in and unpacked I pulled up an OS map on my phone and found where I thought it was located. It looked to be about a mile away so I set off on foot to try and find it. I walked along a country lane, then a bridle path and then another lane until I spotted it tucked away on a derelict piece of land behind a bus depot. In 1941, Italian prisoners of war were transported from Italy to Glasgow and then housed in a POW camp just outside Lockerbie and put to work on the land. They asked the landowner for permission to use one of the corrugated iron huts for religious services and created their own chapel. Later in the war Ukrainian internees were housed there and took over the chapel. When the war ended most stayed in Scotland. Being returned to the Soviet Union would most likely have resulted in their execution as traitors. The chapel was used up until the present day and most recently acted as a donation point for food and clothing for Ukraine following the Russian invasion.

The chapel is still standing but by the look of things now undergoing major repairs. I found a picture of what it looked like on the internet and it reminded me of a similar chapel created by Italian POWs that I saw in the Orkney Islands a few years ago. 

How the chapel used to look inside

When I peered through the windows I couldn't see much. The walls had been stripped and wires were hanging loose. A large pile of plasterboard was stacked in the centre of the room. Beyond I could just see some faded wallpaper - just a hint at how colourful it once looked.

There was nothing by way of signage to indicate it was undergoing refurbishment, but I assume that's what's happening. Its now a listed building. 

Hallmuir Ukrainian Chapel

I left reflecting on how our perspectives change over time. In 1941 the Ukranian soldiers interned in this place were considered our enemies - some had belonged to the Waffen SS. 

Now we are supporting Ukraine and its people in their struggle against invasion, and Ukranians are considered our friends and allies. Those we welcome to the UK are refugees in need of our compassion and help. This unexpected 'find' in the middle of the countryside outside a small Scottish border town acted as a reminder of how the passage of time can change our views of the world and why, therefore, it is always important to see beyond nationality and focus on the human being. 

Our time in Scotland - after almost a month of travelling - was drawing to a end. We had our final meal in Scotland in the hotel and prepared for the final stage of our journey. The next day we'd be crossing the border back into England but taking time to visit some parts of Cumbria and Lancashire before we finally returned home.