Thin Places

One of the destinations  that was on our 'must see' list of  places to visit was Iona. People have been travelling to this island for 1500 years, mainly as pilgrims, but more recently as holiday makers or travellers like ourselves who want to experience the unique atmosphere of this small and somewhat remote place. Iona was where St Columba established his monastery in 563 AD, and has been an important place for Christian worship ever since.

Our journey to Iona started on a beautiful sunny morning. The road to Fionnphort is as winding as any on Mull, and although only 30 miles, the drive took well over an hour. We had to stop on the way as a herd of Highland cattle were walking on the edge of a loch, in a scene very reminiscent of those favoured by Victorian landscape painters.

It was a beautiful drive, through the Ross of Mull, a long peninsula on the south west corner of Mull. Only cars with a permit are allowed on Iona so at Fionnphort we parked our car and purchased foot passenger tickets for the 10 minute journey across the narrows that separate Iona from Mull.

Approaching Iona

Iona is a small, low lying island, only 3 miles long and 1 mile wide, so ideal for walkers and cyclists to explore. When disembarking from the ferry the road from the pier leads past a few cottages, a Spar, a cafe and gift shop or two, and further up the road a small primary school and medical centre. A bit further along is a hotel. Although Iona is a place of pilgrimage and tourism, it is also home to a small community who farm the land and run small businesses. 

We spent a few minutes looking around the ruins of a 12th century nunnery before walking a little further up the road to Iona Abbey. This stands on the site of the monastic community established by St Columba in 563AD which became one of the most important religious centres in Northern Europe. The abbey as it stands today is largely a late Victorian restoration of a medieval church, and managed by Historic Scotland. 

Iona Abbey

Following Columba's death Iona became a place of pilgrimage, and that continues today. Pilgrims would process to the island passing various crosses, some of which are still dotted around the island. Inside the abbey grounds a small museum displayed some of the grave slabs of warriors who had fought to protect the community during turbulent times. 

The present community is largely the result of a priest and social reformer, George MacLeod, who oversaw a project starting in 1938 to bring together the disparate strands of Christian belief and unite them into one community. He described the island as a 'thin place'. He was trying to describe a place where the boundaries between the physical and the spiritual were almost transparent. I do not have a religious conviction but there is undoubtedly something rather special about the atmosphere on Iona.

The house where George MacLeod lived

As we walked along the lane to the north of the island everything felt incredibly tranquil and peaceful. Even the lambs in the fields were friendly. I gave one a bit of fuss and then handed over to Mrs B who gave it a good tickle under the chin.

After another half mile or so, along a quiet lane and across dunes, we came to a staggeringly beautiful beach 'White Strand of the Monks, right on the northern tip of the island. The sand was soft and white and there were far reaching views north across a deep blue sea. I was hard to believe this was the Hebrides. Only a few other people had made the short trek to see it, so we had the beach virtually to ourselves. It was certainly an intensely beautiful and peaceful place.

White Strand of the Monks

Eventually we strolled back towards the abbey and called into the cafe at the Iona Heritage Centre. I sampled some more delicious Mull cheese, Mrs B had soup and with our energy levels restored we looked around the small, but highly informative, one room museum that focussed not so much on the religious heritage of Iona but on the lives of the ordinary islanders who ran small businesses and crofts. After this diversion we carried on to explore some more of the island on foot. Ignoring a 'beware of the bull' sign, I followed a track through a small farm and out onto another lane past fields where corncrake are often spotted, that petered out to a track that led over a golf course and machair before reaching another beach on the western side of the island called 'The Bay at the Back of The Ocean'. As before, other than the odd person in the distance we had the place to ourselves. 

The Bay at the Back of The Ocean

Returning back along the lane we crossed over to the eastern side and before reaching the pier came to a third beach at Martyrs Bay. Being only a short walk from the ferry this was 'crowded' by Iona standards..but still beautiful.

Martyrs Bay

Having walked a far few miles back around Iona we decided to call it a day and get the ferry back to Mull, mindful it was a long and winding road back to our accomodation. Iona had been a special place to experience. The memories of our visit will stay with us for a long time.

We had been blessed with fine weather for our time in Mull and the next morning dawned bright and sunny. Unfortunately Mrs B was feeling a bit under the weather so she had a morning resting. I left the car where it was and set out on foot to find Grassy Point - about 3 miles away. It was a hot morning and the route I took climbed up and down with lots of views to take in along the way. Eventually I found a sign pointing to a viewpoint that took me right to the top of a cliff edge with far reaching views across to the mainland. 

Grassy Point view point

Returning  to our cottage I found that Mrs B was feeling a little better, so suggested we spend our last afternoon on Mull by taking a short drive to the nearby settlement of Lochbuie on the coast, home of Clan MacLaine. A scenic but slow drive on a narrow single track road eventually brought us to a dead end and the Lochbuie estate. Lots of non native rhodedendron was dotted around - and in bloom, as were some daffodils - not something we expected to see in June.  Parking in front of a rocky beach we walked on a track that went around the bay, keeping an eye open for wildlife. Sea eagles have been spotted here but we didn't see any. They are difficult to miss - with an 8ft wingspan. We did see a couple of fallow deer just over a stone wall along the side of the track.

Lochbuie is an estate that welcomes walkers so there are lots of paths to follow. We stuck to the shoreline, and walked past Lochbuie House built in 1788 to replace the original home of Clan MacLaine, Moy Castle which stands on a little rocky outcrop overlooking the Loch Buie is just a short distance from its newer replacement. . 

It was built in the 14th century and is essentially a fortified tower, now a rather picturesque ruin and a protected monument. 

Moy Castle, Lochbuie.

We walked on, passing through a little grove of trees before reaching Laggan Beach another beautiful wild spot. 

Laggan Beach, Mull

We returned to the car having realised there was so much more we could have seen in Mull if we'd had more time - its a wild island full of drama and contrast. That evening we packed our bags in readiness for a morning ferry crossing back to the mainland. I suggested to Mrs B that I drive her to see the Grassy Point viewpoint I'd walked to earlier that day. After a slight delay caused by a highland roadblock....

A highland roadblock....

.....we walked up to the cliff top, watched the evening light bathe the distance mountains in golden pastel colours and watched the sun starting to set behind us.